The Internet can be a confusing thing. Not what’s on it, but how you access it. In my travels I continue to encounter folks who don’t understand the basics of Internet connectivity--namely, the differences between Wi-Fi and 3G.
This can cause problems, especially for buyers of devices like the Kindle Fire and Nook Color, which rely heavily on Internet access.
Indeed, I’ll reckon no small number of these devices get returned because users think they’re broken--when what’s really happening is a lack of Wi-Fi.
So let’s talk Internet. If you have broadband (i.e. cable or DSL) service in your home, you probably also have a router--a device that makes that broadband connection wireless. In other words, you’ve got Wi-Fi.
That’s great when you’re using your laptop, tablet, iPod Touch, or other device around the house, but what happens when you’re in the car? Or at the beach? No Wi-Fi. And that means no Internet.
That’s where 3G comes in. 3G is kind of like “Wi-Fi everywhere,” meaning it provides Internet access via the same radio towers that provide voice service to your mobile phone. (FYI, 4G is the same thing, just faster.)
Ah, but not all devices are equipped to access 3G service. The Kindle Fire and Nook Color, for example, are Wi-Fi-only tablets. That means they can connect to the Internet only where there’s a Wi-Fi hotspot (which, in addition to your home, can be a coffee shop, library, airport terminal, etc.)
Of course, some laptops, tablets, and gadgets are equipped for 3G as well as Wi-Fi. The catch is that you have to pay extra for the former, usually to a carrier like AT&T or Verizon. Whether or not it’s worth it depends on how much time you out of range of Wi-Fi hotspots. (For example, if you travel a lot.)
That said, I think there’s a smarter option than paying for 3G for a single device: buy a mobile hotspot instead. These pocket-size gizmos connect to 3G (or 4G) networks, then share that connection via Wi-Fi to as many as five nearby devices--not just one. And the monthly rates are about the same as you’d pay for one gadget with built-in 3G.
Restore Access to a Write-Protected Hard Drive
During a bit of housecleaning today, I uncovered an old USB hard drive I hadn't used in a couple years. I decided to plug it in, check the contents, and see if it contained anything I still needed.
As it turned out, the drive was filled with a bunch of old, unwanted files. Great, I thought, I'll just delete them and put the drive back into use for other things.
Just one problem: when I tried to erase the files, Windows popped up an error message about the drive being write-protected. Uh, okay. Not sure why that would be, but whatever. Guess I'll just go ahead and format the drive. That'll clear everything out.
Whoops! Same error. Oh, Windows, you baffling, unpredictable, endlessly annoying operating system, you. (FYI, I'm running Windows 7 64-bit. The drive was most likely formatted using a 32-bit version of Windows XP. Maybe that had something to do with it.)
I spent some time investigating varies fixes for this problem, which can affect any kind of drive, and landed on the following:
- Open a Command prompt by clicking Start, typing command, and clicking Command Prompt.
- Type diskpart and press Enter.
- Type list volume and press Enter.
- Type select volume #, where # is the number of the drive that's giving you the "write-protected" error. In my case, I ended up typing select volume 3.
- Type attributes disk clear readonly and press Enter.
- Type exit and press Enter.
That's it! Now you should have full write access to the problem drive. This worked for me; let me know if you have different results.
If you've got a hassle that needs solving, send it my way. I can't promise a response, but I'll definitely read every e-mail I get--and do my best to address at least some of them in the PCWorld Hassle-Free PC blog. My 411: email@example.com. You can also sign up to have the Hassle-Free PC newsletter e-mailed to you each week.